Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Continuous Kitchen and How to Make Brown Chicken Stock


The continuous kitchen is a concept that seems lost to the sands of time.  Once upon a time, when most of the cooking was done in the home from scratch, kitchens ran with a certain amount of reliance on whatever had been prepared earlier in the day, week or month to save time and effort.  Home cooks didn't have to spend as much time in the kitchen prepping for certain meals, nor were they forced to rely on commercially prepared ingredients like canned stock.   They weren't really making things from scratch every single day, rather they were riding on a few days worth of work already done.  Often they did this prep work when it was easy to do - while they were already preparing another meal.

Modern cooks who want to replicate old recipes or old ways of cooking often need to spend a lot of time preparing elements and ingredients to cook with instead of focusing on just the meal at hand.  Old style continuous kitchens would likely plan days or weeks at a time and have the necessary ingredients already prepared, making the preparation of a wholesome meal much less time-consuming.

I try to run my kitchen in a continuous fashion, but usually I'm not that successful.  It's definitely something I'm trying to work on.  I think I need to do some more research on the subject and see what else I can learn.  I've been able to get my kitchen to run continuously for a day or two, but not much more than that.  I'll have to find more tasks that can be done over several days.  I'll describe the one attempt that has been successful so far.

The Weekend Chicken-to-Stock-to-Soup Continuity

Friday - I'll buy a whole roasted organic chicken from the market.  I love rotisserie style chicken and since I don't have a rotisserie setup at home, we buy ours.  It's great to get a break from cooking a whole meal - a treat to myself.  When we're feeling extravagant, we get a few side dishes also from the market and dinner is served.  A whole chicken is more than the two of us can eat so there are leftovers that head to the fridge.  We save the bones and extra skin from the meal and put them in the fridge for later use.  (This works just as well with a chicken you've roasted at home.)

Saturday - When I wake up, I'll put on the kettle for tea and start boiling filtered water in a stock pot.  While I wait for them to boil, I pick the remaining meat off the carcass and reserve it in a bowl.  The carcass itself goes in the pot, making sure there is enough water to cover it completely.

I peel and quarter an onion, chop about 2 or 3 stalks of celery into 2-inch chunks and toss in 2-3 carrots also cut into 2 inch chunks, along with their green leafy tops.  (Carrot tops are similar in taste to parsley and can be substituted for parsley as long as they are well-cooked.  Some people are sensitive to raw carrot tops.)  If I've been to the store, I'll add 1 pack of fresh organic poultry herbs.  If not, I head out to my modest herb garden and snip a few sprigs of thyme, some sage leaves and a few sprigs of rosemary.  All this is simmered together in the pot for at least 3 hours.  I add water periodically to keep the carcass covered.  If I have the time, I'll let the pot simmer for up to 5 hours.

Often I'll chop vegetables for soup right after I get everything going and place them in the fridge.  I do this at the same time I am preparing breakfast.  This way I can clean up everything right away and have no dirty dishes hanging about.  The only thing tied up is the stock pot and one burner, leaving everything else free for whatever else I might be doing like cooking breakfast or lunch.

Usually I am at home doing chores on Saturday so it isn't hard to keep an eye on the pot.  I stir it once in a while and make sure everything is going well.  If I need to run to the store or go on a short errand, I make sure the heat is turned down, but I can leave the pot cooking on the stove for a bit without supervision without trouble.

At the end of 3-5 hours, I have a nice stock ready for whatever purpose I have in mind, usually soup.  A stock of this kind made from a roasted chicken carcass is often referred to as a brown stock.  When I'm ready to make the soup I saute the veggies I chopped earlier and then add them to the stock.  I can also drop in the chicken meat I removed earlier.  I let the soup cook about 40 minutes more.  The result is a rustic style chicken soup with homemade stock that doesn't really take a lot of time or effort.

Sunday - The soup is eaten again, either as lunch or dinner.  Sometimes the soup will last til Monday, but that doesn't happen often.  :)

Variations
Sometimes I'll use half the leftover meat for another dish (like chicken lettuce wraps or chicken sandwiches) on Saturday and save the soup for Sunday night.

The types of continuous kitchen tasks you can implement are varied.  Since we are not used to one kitchen task leading into another, it can be hard to figure out what to do.  Try to think of what kinds of meals can lead to other meals.  Once you get good at doing certain tasks in sequence, you'll know what ingredients you need to have on hand to complete the steps.  Master it and you can have a series of delicious home-cooked meals for significantly less time and effort.

And now... a recipe:

Brown Chicken Stock
1 roast chicken carcass, meat picked off and reserved
enough filtered or purified water to cover the carcass
1 pack fresh organic poultry herbs
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
2-3 stalks celery, cut into 2 inch chunks
2-3 whole organic carrots, cut into 2 inch chunks (stems and all)

Combine all ingredients in a stock pot and simmer uncovered for at least 3 hours and up to 5 hours.  Strain with a metal colander.  If making soup, saute veggies first then add to the pot along with the reserved chicken meat and cook for another 40 minutes.  If simply making stock, remove from heat and let cool.  Freeze or refrigerate stock for future use.

2 comments:

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